Reference
Ricoh GR Image Control, explained
Image Control is the menu that decides how a GR renders a JPEG: which built-in look it starts from, and how nine sliders bend that look. Every recipe on this site is a set of those choices. This page is the reference behind them: which modes each camera has, what each mode is for, and what every slider does in which direction. The slider directions were measured on Ricoh's own published sample frames, because the one people argue about most, Contrast (Shadow), is backwards in most English write-ups.
Two things to hold onto. Image Control changes the JPEG and never the RAW file. And recipe values are absolute slider positions, so a mode that ships with a slider already off zero (Negative Film does) has to be set, not nudged.
Which camera has which modes
- GR III and GR IIIx: Standard, Vivid, Monotone, Soft Monotone, Hard Monotone, Hi-Contrast B&W, Positive Film, Negative Film, Bleach Bypass, Retro, Cross Processing, HDR Tone, plus two custom slots. The two bodies share identical menus. Negative Film needs firmware 1.70 (III) or 1.20 (IIIx); Cross Processing needs 1.30 on the III. Grain exists on the four black and white modes only.
- GR IV and GR IV HDF: the same twelve plus Cinema (Yellow) and Cinema (Green), three custom slots that can be renamed from the app, and grain with a size setting on eight modes: the four black and white modes, Positive Film, Negative Film and both Cinema modes.
- GR IV Monochrome: six modes of its own, Standard, Solid, Soft, High Contrast, Grainy and HDR Tone, plus three custom slots. No white balance, Saturation, Hue or Filter Effect anywhere in its menus.
The color modes
Standard
All color bodiesThe neutral starting point. Every slider ships at 0, and the rendering is close to the RAW file minus the lens vignette. Muted chrome-style street recipes are usually built here with Saturation and Contrast pulled down.
Vivid
All color bodiesRicoh's own description is sharp and vivid colors. Punchy without going cartoonish, and it can clip a color channel in strong light, so recipes built on it tend to protect highlights.
Positive Film
All color bodiesThe signature GR color look: dense, saturated slide-film color with deep blacks. Ricoh describes it as highly saturated images like those taken with positive film. It holds color until it clips hard, which is why most Positive Film recipes run Contrast (Highlight) negative or Highlight Correction on.
Negative Film
GR III from firmware 1.70, GR IIIx from 1.20 (January 2023), GR IV from launchThe soft, faded-print mode: a lifted shadow curve, muted highlights and gentle color. Ricoh's release note describes a balance between the faded look of a print from negative film and well-defined colors. It ships with Key +1, Contrast +1 and Contrast (Shadow) -1 already set, which matters below. Several of the most-saved recipes on this site are built on it.
Bleach Bypass
All color bodiesLow saturation and high contrast, after the film process that skips the bleach. It crushes blacks and blows highlights sooner than any other mode, so recipes usually rein it in with the regional contrast sliders. Carries a Toning control.
Retro
All color bodiesAn old-photo fade with soft peripheral darkening. The one color mode with a numeric Toning control, which creators push for warm golden-hour fades.
Cross Processing
GR III from firmware 1.30 (October 2019), GR IIIx and GR IV from launchShifted color and contrast, after slide film developed in the wrong chemistry. A Color Tone setting picks one of three variants (a blue-cyan default, a magenta-red one and a yellow one). Exposure changes the shift, which is part of the fun and part of the risk.
HDR Tone
All color bodiesA painterly tone-mapped look from a single frame. Only Saturation, Hue, Toning and an HDR Tone Level are adjustable, so an HDR Tone recipe is short by design. Its Toning can take it to black and white or sepia.
Cinema (Yellow)
GR IV and GR IV HDF onlyA cinematic image with a yellowish tint, in Ricoh's words. Turning Toning up pushes the yellow further into the highlights. Pairs with Auto WB or AWB (Warmth Priority); the White Priority mode fights it.
Cinema (Green)
GR IV and GR IV HDF onlyA cinematic image with a greenish tint in the shadow areas. Toning up adds red to the highlights against the green shadows, a split tone that is harder to use. The home of the teal night looks on the Cinema recipes page.
The black and white modes
All four drop Saturation and Hue and add three extras: Toning, a numbered Filter Effect (Off, 1 to 4) and Grain. White balance still matters on a color body shooting black and white, because it feeds the conversion: creators fake a red filter's darker sky with a warm 10000K reference shifted toward magenta, and a blue filter with 2500K shifted toward blue.
Monotone
All color bodiesThe balanced, full-scale black and white. Most everyday and street B&W recipes start here.
Soft Monotone
All color bodiesLow contrast, lifted and gentle, with shadow detail kept. The classic base for a sepia-toned look.
Hard Monotone
All color bodiesPunchy, deep-black B&W. The street default, especially with grain at 2 or 3.
Hi-Contrast B&W
All color bodiesThe extreme: Ricoh compares it to ultra-high-sensitivity film or push processing. Blocked shadows, glowing highlights and a built-in grainy feel.
The GR IV Monochrome's own modes
These are not renamed copies of the color body's black and white modes. A recipe page's walkthrough maps Monotone to Standard and Hard Monotone or Hi-Contrast B&W to High Contrast; the sliders carry over as written and the white balance line is skipped. The recipes confirmed for it are on the GR IV Monochrome page.
Standard
GR IV MonochromeRicoh: excellent tone reproduction and a good balance between light and dark areas.
Solid
GR IV MonochromeClear contours and sharp contrast for a modern look, an S-curve with edge emphasis. No color-body ancestor.
Soft
GR IV MonochromeSoftened outlines and gently reduced contrast.
High Contrast
GR IV MonochromePronounced black and white contrast. Owners who A/B it against a color GR IV on Hi-Contrast B&W find the two nearly indistinguishable, which is what makes the site's B&W recipes portable to this body.
Grainy
GR IV MonochromeStrong built-in grain that, per Ricoh, keeps highlights from blowing out and shadows from blocking up.
HDR Tone
GR IV MonochromeShadow-emphasis drama, the Monochrome's take on the tone-mapped look.
The nine sliders
Every slider runs from -4 to +4 on every body. Which ones a mode exposes varies: the black and white modes hide Saturation and Hue, HDR Tone hides everything but Saturation and Hue. Directions below were measured on the nineteen sample frames Ricoh published for the GR III's launch, the same scene at +4 and -4 for each slider.
Saturation
- Plus
- Richer, denser color
- Minus
- Muted, pastel color. -4 is still color, not black and white.
Hue and tone barely move. The same value renders differently per mode: Asakura's official article shows identical settings giving a true red on Positive Film and a faded vermilion on Negative Film.
Hue
- Plus
- Rotates every color toward orange, yellow and green. Skin goes yellower past +2.
- Minus
- Rotates every color toward red and magenta. Skin warms toward pink, greens go olive. This is the warm-film direction most recipes use.
About 2.4 degrees per step, measured. Neutrals stay neutral, so Hue is not a white balance substitute; use the WB shift for a cast and Hue for how the colors relate under it.
High/Low Key
- Plus
- Brighter overall, weighted to the midtones
- Minus
- Darker overall
The full +/-4 swing is about one stop of apparent brightness. It only changes how the JPEG is rendered, so it cannot rescue a blown highlight; exposure compensation decides what the sensor captured.
Contrast
- Plus
- Steeper curve: darker shadows and brighter highlights
- Minus
- Flatter curve: blacks lift and whites dim
Negative Contrast is the matte, faded-black lever. On Ricoh's frames, Contrast -4 lifts the darkest half-percent of the frame by about 14 luma points.
Contrast (Highlight)
- Plus
- Highlights driven up, toward clipping
- Minus
- Highlights pulled down: rolloff, protected skies, softer whites
Only the highlight region moves. -1 to -2 is cheap insurance on anything shot in daylight; 13 of the first 28 recipes on this site sat between -2 and -4.
Contrast (Shadow)
- Plus
- Shadows lifted and opened, more shadow detail
- Minus
- Shadows deepened and tightened
This is the one most English guides get backwards, because on Fujifilm the sign runs the other way. Measured on Ricoh's own A/B frames and stated by three Ricoh staff writers: positive brightens the shadows. Reggie Ballesteros says the same about his -4: it keeps the shadows nice and dark. The fade in faded recipes comes from negative overall Contrast or from Negative Film's base curve, never from negative Contrast (Shadow).
Sharpness
- Plus
- Harder, crisper edges
- Minus
- Softer, rounder edges
Edge acutance only. The histograms of the +4 and -4 frames are identical, so it never changes tone. Keep GR IV ports one notch lower than GR III originals; the IV is already crisper.
Shading
- Plus
- Brighter corners, a glow-frame effect
- Minus
- Darker corners, the vignette direction
Measured on Ricoh's frames; no manual states the sign in words. -1 to -2 reads like natural lens falloff, -3 to -4 is a deliberate retro vignette. It stacks on top of whatever Peripheral Illumination Correction leaves.
Clarity
- Plus
- More local contrast: texture, grit, presence on stone and clouds
- Minus
- Less local contrast: a hazy bloom, flattering on skin
Unlike Sharpness it moves tones, expanding the tonal range at +4 and compressing it at -4. +/-1 to 2 is where recipes live; +3 and +4 halo around hard edges.
The extras
- Toning: on the black and white modes, Bleach Bypass, Retro, HDR Tone and (on the GR IV) both Cinema modes. Its scale and labels differ by mode and body, and Ricoh's own recipes print it both as a name (Purple) and as a number, so follow the recipe's value as written.
- Filter Effect: black and white modes only, numbered Off and 1 to 4. No manual names the colors and the community decodes disagree, so this site prints the number and nothing else.
- Grain: GR III generation, Off, Weak, Medium or Strong (shown on the camera as -, 1, 2, 3) on the black and white modes. GR IV generation, Strength and Size, each in three steps, on eight modes. Porting a GR III grain value to a GR IV, keep the strength and start with Size Small.
- Color Tone: the Cross Processing variant picker, three flavors.
- HDR Tone Level: the strength of the tone mapping on HDR Tone.
White balance, the other half of a recipe
Every white balance mode, including a Kelvin value from 2500K to 10000K, takes a fine-tune shift of up to 14 steps on two axes: amber to blue, and green to magenta. The camera prints the green-magenta value first (G1:A1); this site prints amber first (A1 G1) and always shows both. The shift is the biggest single grading lever on the camera, and it is where most of the difference between two recipes on the same mode lives. The GR IV drops Multi-Auto WB and adds Auto WB (White Priority) and Auto WB (Warmth Priority); GR III recipes that used Multi-Auto load as plain Auto on a GR IV.
GR III recipes on a GR IV
Within a generation a recipe is one-to-one. Across generations the GR IV renders a touch warmer and up to about a third of a stop brighter at identical values, measured by Ritchie Roesch on the same recipe side by side. There is no clean conversion formula; the drift depends on the mode and the light. Rules of thumb that owners use: Key -1 or about -0.3 EV on the IV to match the III's brightness, and one or two steps toward blue or magenta on a fixed white balance to counter the warmth. Recipes with a fixed white balance port more faithfully than Auto WB ones, because the two generations' Auto WB think differently.
Questions people ask
- What is the difference between an Image Control and a recipe?
- An Image Control is one of the camera's built-in looks (Positive Film, Negative Film, Monotone and so on). A recipe is an Image Control plus the values of its sliders, plus a white balance setting and shift, plus the extras like grain, all saved to a U1, U2 or U3 slot. Every recipe on this site lists exactly that.
- Does Image Control change my RAW files?
- No. Image Control shapes the JPEG only. A RAW file records what the sensor captured and ignores every slider, which is also why High/Low Key cannot bring back a blown highlight: use exposure compensation for that. The same controls reappear in the camera's RAW development menu, so you can apply a recipe to a RAW after the fact.
- Why does my Negative Film shot not match a recipe that says Key 0?
- Because recipe values are absolute slider positions, not changes from the default, and Negative Film does not start at zero: it ships with Key +1, Contrast +1 and Contrast (Shadow) -1. A recipe that says Key 0 means you set the slider to 0, one step below the factory position. Standard is the only mode that starts with everything at 0.
- Does Contrast (Shadow) minus lift the shadows?
- No, it deepens them. Positive lifts. Ricoh's own A/B frames, three Ricoh staff articles and Reggie Ballesteros's walkthrough all agree, and the recipes on this site are described using that rule. If a faded recipe carries Contrast (Shadow) -4, the fade is coming from negative overall Contrast or from the Negative Film base curve, and the -4 is tightening the darks under it.
- Which modes does the GR IV have that the GR III does not?
- Cinema (Yellow) and Cinema (Green), a third custom slot, and film grain on Positive Film, Negative Film and the two Cinema modes with a size setting as well as strength. The GR III generation only has grain on its four black and white modes. Everything else carries over with the same names.
- What do the Filter Effect numbers mean on the black and white modes?
- The camera labels them Off and 1 to 4, and no Ricoh manual gives them color names. Community decodes disagree with each other, and creators' own usage contradicts the most common one, so this site prints the number a creator used and nothing more. On the GR IV Monochrome there is no Filter Effect at all; it has a physical red filter in the lens instead.
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